Paris Hotels: Chic, Sleek, et Classique

Travel guru Jason Salzenstein is obsessed with France; luckily, he loves to share. And with so many hotels in Paris - and all of their renovations, change of ownerships, and seasonal specials, it helps to have an expert around to offer some advice- as biased as it may be. Here are his top picks for hot hotels; let us know what you think - and share your favorites - in the comments section at the end...

There's no city quite like The City of Light; there's no city like Paris. From the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame; the Champs Elys�es to Parc St. Cloud; the Left Bank to the Right, Paris is incroyable. One of the most beautiful cities in the world, Paris also happens to be my favorite destination.

I try to get to Paris at least once a year, and when I'm there, I try to do and see as much as I can- partly because I have a voracious appetite for everything French, but also because I know that EDGE readers want to know what's going on, so they can plan their trips appropriately. On my most recent visit, I opted to take it a bit more slowly, taking select outings to my favorite places. I did, however, make some time to check out a handful of hotels: new, classic, old favorites, and (what I'm sure will be) future friends.

RIGHT BANK :: CONTEMPORARY

Renaissance Paris Vendome

Until recently, France had no 5-star hotels. Why? Because the country's official rating system for accommodations maxed-out at 4-stars. Not that it would have mattered much; rather than being based on quality (that would make too much sense), they system was instead an assessment of the presence or absence of certain features in the hotel (number of rooms, soundproofing, phone and electrical equipment and design of bathroom facilities...), which sounds ridiculous and asinine (it is), but makes perfect sense if you understand the French. Fortunately for travelers, that all changed, and in 2009 France joined most of the rest of the free world (an umbrella under which the ridiculous 7-star resorts of the Middle East - and their oppression of women and gays - clearly do not fall under), bringing a fifth star to the table- or suite as the case may be. Dozens of hotels immediately applied to be reclassified and grab an additional star; only a small handful were deemed worthy of this honor. Among them was the Renaissance Paris Vendome.

I've been fortunate enough to experience the quiet luxury of the Renaissance Vendome on two occasions, and am not at all surprised that this contemporary boutique style hotel was quickly awarded an additional star. Not only is it perfectly situated in the heart of the city (a three-minute walk from the Louvre, Place Vendome, the Opera, Place de la Concorde and primary Metro lines), it's also perfectly fabulous in its own right. The hotel features sophisticated contemporary d�cor; a quiet Library-Lounge off the lobby (complete with cozy fireplace); the Chinese Bar (don't be shy- try out all of the specials!); Pinxo, a concept restaurant from Alain Dutournier (the 2-Michelin Star chef of Le Carr� des Feuillants); a modern workout and wellness center complete with pool and day spa; and service that will obliterate any preconceived notion you may have of Parisians being anything but friendly, helpful, and fabulous.

Of course you can find outstanding service at other hotels in Paris- and thanks to TV and movies, a couple "old classics" will forever be associated with 5-star accommodations no matter how stuffy or snotty they are in reality. Personally, however, I'll take the friendly, genuine service at the Renaissance Vendome over the gold-leaf-encrusted-everything at a palatial hotel where staff wear top hats, tails and white gloves. It might make for a great 'look,' but it certainly doesn't feel friendly or warm - or allow you to relax after a long day spent exploring the city. The staff at the 'RenParVen' are always professional, but they also know how to smile, and how to make guests feel comfortable. (And I'd much rather have great, welcoming service than be waited on hand-and-foot by stuffy doorman that look like they'd be a better fit at Versailles circa 1775.)

The entire hotel went through a beautiful transformation not long ago, and as a result oozes sophisticated contemporary style from the lobby on up. Rooms are "Parisian sized," but plenty large enough for visiting, and given where you are, it's unlikely you're going to spend much time in your room anyway. Fabrics, surfaces, accessories and the d�cor in general live up to the hotel's 5-star status, as do the amenities, which include marble bathrooms, plush linens, flat screen TVs, DVD/CD players, iPod docks... In short, you can't do wrong in selecting this hotel. Renaissance Paris Vendome

Next - Right Bank :: Modern

RIGHT BANK :: MODERN

Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe

Sadly (very sadly), I didn't get the chance to stay at the Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe on my last visit to Paris... mostly because it wasn't yet open. I did, however, pop inside for a tour (which included a peek into a few of the guest rooms that had been completed), and can safely say that this hotel is at the top of my list upon my return.

Designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc, this contemporary new addition to the neighborhood embraces modern design style from lobby to roof... under which lie a handful of rooms and suites offering the city's best view of downtown Paris. (See the main image for this feature for proof...). The newest 5-star hotel in Paris, the 'RenParADT' is steps away from the Champs-Elys�es and Arc de Triomphe, with rooms that are spacious not only for Paris, but in general. Rooms are bright and light-filled (the hotel offers both City View rooms, with floor-to-ceiling windows and Balcony rooms, which overlook the inner courtyard), there's WiFi throughout, and they've even got a no-charge fitness room- unusual in France.

When it comes time to dine, the hotel's refreshingly casual Makassar offers a cozy atmosphere paired with a menu that features both contemporary French cuisine and a selection of Indonesian-inspired dishes.

Finally, even if you aren't in Paris for business, be sure to pop-in to the hotel's historic Salle Wagram, a famous banquet and ballroom venue built in 1865, and lovingly restored by the hotel. Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe

Even more Marriott...

For many American travelers, the Marriott brand (which includes Renaissance properties) stands for comfort, familiarity and style - concepts that are well represented in the company's Paris portfolio. I toured a small handful while in town, and was impressed with both the level of service - consistently high throughout - and the unique feel of each property.

A true star, the Paris Marriott Champs-Elysees is not only located on "La plus belle avenue du monde," it's also the only hotel on the most famous of shopping streets. The hotel is both historic, and consistently a part of history-in-the making, as it occupies the original Louis Vuitton building and - clearly a perfect location for visitors - the Champs-side rooms and suites are coveted for major events like the Tour de France. The lobby is stunning, rooms are comfortable, and you couldn't be in a better location! Paris Marriott Champs-Elysees

Just a bit west, the Renaissance Paris Le Parc Trocadero sits in Paris' "golden triangle," near the Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower, and Trocadero. Occupying what was previously two large private residences, three annex buildings and a lush courtyard, the newly remodeled hotel features classic French d�cor and service, including a fine dining restaurant under the supervision of Romain Corbiere, an Alain Ducasse-trained master. If you're planning a wedding, book the courtyard (pictured) early; it's a popular destination- and after you see it, you'll understand why. Renaissance Paris Parc Trocadero

Next - Right Bank :: Classic

RIGHT BANK :: CLASSIC

Le Dokhan’s... Champagne, anyone?

A classic luxury boutique hotel, Le Dokhan's is at once historic and contemporary. From the museum-quality antiques and fresh, modern fabrics of the lobby to the marble countered bathrooms and flat screen TVs in the rooms and suites, this is a truly Parisian hotel; perfectly updated. Given that it's part of the new Radisson Blu family, however, you'd expect nothing less.

Part of the company's boutique portfolio, the 4-star Le Dokhan's doesn't just shine when it comes to style; the service is also exceptional - something reflected in the high number of regular and return guests. And while I adore the hotel's style and service, my personal favorite features lie elsewhere... in the elevator, and in Paris' first ever Champagne Bar.

"The elevator?" I can hear you thinking. Yes; you read it right. You see, the elevator at Le Dokhan's is no normal elevator; it's a giant Louis Vuitton trunk turned inside-out. And for me, the worst decision I could face would be to choose between Louis Vuitton and Champagne; I'm fairly certain that I'd spontaneously combust if forced to choose. Luckily I had my press credentials with me, which I used in order to tour the rooms before indulging in my favorite beverage.

The rooms at Le Dokhan's are the definition of old Parisian glamour and luxury. While all of the surfaces are sparkling clean and feel totally fresh, the design, style, and atmosphere are pure Parisian romance. Each room is different, and each is special; given the small number (Le Dokhan's has just 41 rooms and four suites), I decided to set a goal to stay in each one. Intimate yet plenty spacious, you'd be hard pressed to find a more romantic room than the Eiffel Suite or a more inviting bed than the one in the Ming Suite. Le Dokhan's is the perfect setting for a honeymoon, anniversary, or... scandalous romantic rendezvous.

As much as I would have loved to test out a bed (or slip into the whirlpool bath featured in select rooms), given my penchant for bubbles I felt compelled to indulge in the hotel's Champagne tasting. After a week spent touring the south of France, I was also quite ready to sit in one place for more than a couple hours, and decided to turn my tasting into a petite respite, escaping into the history and character of the bubbles.

Each week, Le Dokhan's head sommelier selects a new winemaker to be featured, and Champagne fans - that would be me - enjoy three selections from that house. The setting is truly divine; gilded walls, candle-lit tables, and service from an expert (who also happens to be adorable) make for a truly magical evening. You could be sitting in a parlor in Versailles and be no more happy.

Aside from selecting the weekly bubbles for the standard tasting, "the sexy sommelier" (my name, not theirs) organizes special Champagne and chocolate, and champagne and caviar tastings as well. The night I dropped by, Mikael (we're on a first name basis) was featuring bubbly from the house of Bruno Paillard; I enjoyed a beautiful Blanc de Noirs, a fruity-but-not-overly-sweet Ros�, and a divinely complex brut made from 100% Pinot noir grapes- unusual for Champagne. Then I had another glass of the ros�. With some chocolates. (And then just a taste more, to make absolutely sure it was as good as I thought...)

The Champagne tasting at Le Dokhan's is unique and special- and not simply because it's the only one in Paris. In fact, the entire experience is brilliant; not only do you have your choice of more than 50 Champagnes, you also get to select your preferred shape of glass (among three flutes, one tulip and a coupe) and if you share the tasting - and perhaps one extra glass - with someone special, it actually makes for an extremely reasonable (and beyond fabulous) Parisian date. I highly recommend the tasting to anyone visiting The City of Light, and in fact, it's become a must-do on my Paris list.

Radisson Blu is not overly user friendly; to access Le Dokhan's website, you must go to www.radissonblu.com then either click on "Explore Hotels" and make your way through the maze, or select the country, then city on the upper right. Let's hope this changes soon...

Next - Left Bank :: Design

Hotel Bel Ami

The contemporary Hotel Bel Ami is one of my favorite hotels in Paris, because no matter how many times I stay there, it always feels bright, fresh, and new; when I arrived for my most recent visit, I was even more elated, when I entered the pristine lobby to find that my 'beautiful friend' was even more so than when I visited the city two years prior.

Since my last visit, the Hotel Bel Ami has added even a bit more sparkle (in the figurative sense) to the lobby and general d�cor. Resplendent in clean, bright, pure white, the lobby conveys a feeling of pristine airiness, anchored - and set off - by pops of fabulous pink and orange in the adjoining bar and lounge, which add gorgeous splashes of color that bring warmth and vibrancy.

Although the Bel Ami is certainly a contemporary design hotel (and in fact a member of design hotels), unlike a few other modern hotels in Paris, there's nothing austere, sterile or cold about it. The lines are clean and crisp, the spaces clear of clutter, and there's no fancy frou-frou, but the bursts of color provide just the right amount of texture, depth and richness, which almost invites you want to sit and stay - not run away.

In fact, once in your room, although still contemporary in design, the fabrics, wall coverings, color palette and furnishings make it quite clear you're in Paris. The hotel offers four categories of rooms in a mix of styles, although all are brilliantly designed, very comfortable, and offer plenty of space for two. (Even two gay men with more luggage than the average beauty pageant contestant.) Exclusive bath products share a scent with the rest of the hotel (a trick whose method I've yet to get to the bottom of, and something I'd recommend to other hoteliers in this market), and of course all rooms feature flat-screen TVs and WiFi- which is FREE at the Bel Ami- which earns the hotel a handful of bonus points in my book.

When you do finally return from a long day of shopping, walking, museums and exploration (whether you're exploring history, architecture or beau mecs - hot guys), you'll find the beds more than inviting... which may come in handy depending on who you brought back. In fact, they're among the fluffiest and most enveloping I've found, and when it comes to hotel beds, I do get around. (Unfortunately I had to enjoy my bed alone this time; a small crime because my boyfriend would have loved the pillows - although he would have missed the cats, and they him.)

As food goes, you'd be hard pressed to find a better hotel breakfast - in Paris or anywhere else. The spread at the Bel-Ami Caf� is simple but tasty; classic Parisian with an international touch - and always fresh. Just off the lobby, the B.A Bar serves cocktails day and night, with plenty of room to relax, get some work done, or sip your drink while enjoying live jazz and piano, a regular feature and beautiful backdrop.

Last but certainly not least, the Bel-Ami Wellness Centre - Espace Bien Etre by Payot - offers a complete workout area plus treatment rooms for a range of massage and skincare offerings, which I can never pass up. (And in this case, I'm glad I didn't - my massage and facial were heavenly!)
Hotel Bel Ami

Next - Left Bank :: Contemporary

LEFT BANK :: CONTEMPORARY

Hotel des Academies et des Arts

The Hotel des Academies et des Arts is a true classic Parisian boutique hotel- and fabulously so. The rooms - there are less than two dozen - are 'Parisian sized' but incredibly well designed, the service is impeccable (the entire staff speaks excellent English), and the d�cor has been fabulously updated in a classic style with gorgeous modern finishes. (Apparently the interior was designed and selected by the owner's wife, who doesn't decorate professionally - but should give it serious consideration...)

This is truly a special hotel, full of intimate touches and 'little bits of comfort' that make you feel as if you're staying at the (very large) home of your (wealthy) French cousins; guests are made to feel like friends, and it's almost guaranteed that you'll make new ones at breakfast or while sipping Champagne or a nightcap.

Speaking of breakfast, it's divine. True, French breakfasts are always a small slice of heaven, but this one was especially so. It started with segments of the juiciest grapefruit I've ever tasted and a half glass of freshly squeezed OJ... made from oranges that, I'm fairly certain, came from an orchard tended to by angels. The viennoiseries (my favorite food group after Champagne and chocolate) were also exceptional; the same quality as those I've had at 5-star hotels with rates four times as high.

The hotel sits on the street where Modigliani had his studio, and just adjacent to the famous Acad�mie de la Grande Chaumiere, former home to artistic geniuses including Gaugin and Giacometti, among others. For these reasons, the Hotel des Academies et des Arts is dedicated to the creative arts, something that's reflected in the d�cor - down to the theatrical red touches you'll find throughout. Taking this dedication one step further, after completing primary design, the owners turned over the hotel to painter J�r�me Mesnager, giving him carte blanche to draw his famous "white bodies" on any and every available surface. The result is magnificent, with his immediately recognizable hand apparent throughout. You'll also find sculptures from Sophie de Watrigant adorning the hotel staircase.

Sous-sol sits the Salle de Bien Etre, where you can get a massage, facial, mani-pedi, and more from staff sent directly from a local (and very well-known, very high-end) spa. After a treatment, pop back up to the tearoom - Chez Charlotte - for a selection of sippers from Le Palais des Th�s accompanied by macaroons from Pierre Herm�. (Recently declared to be "perfection" by Ferran Adria, chef of El Bulli, recognized almost universally as the best restaurant in the world.)

The Hotel des Academies et des Arts is the complete opposite of a big American hotel - which is exactly what makes it sheer perfection.

Next - Left Bank :: Classic

LEFT BANK :: CLASSIC

Victoria Palace

I consider myself fortunate to have lived in Paris and visited the remarkable city many times for work and pleasure. As a result, I've stayed at a lot of Parisian hotels - most of which are quite amazing. On my most recent trip, I decided to go out of my way to book a room in a hotel that offers classic French grandeur- which I found in the Victoria Palace Hotel.

The 4-star hotel is a Left Bank landmark, serving as the Parisian home to major figures including Irish writer James Joyce and Italian painter Giorgio De Chirico. Set back in the 6th Arrondissement, the hotel sits in a bustling-yet-surprisingly-quiet neighborhood, between Saint-Germain-des-Pr�s and Montparnasse. The location is excellent because it offers easy access to the Metro and central Paris, but it doesn't lie in the normal "tourist zone," which allows you to explore an area of Paris you may not have seen before. Oh, it's still a cinch to get to all of the top points of interest, but you get the added bonus of being in an area that feels more like a "real" French neighborhood.

For shoppers (e.g, me) it's also a dream; Galeries Lafayette, Zara, M.A.C., and a few dozen other stores are a few minutes walk away, as are a handful of cute little restaurants. The hotel is also just a few minutes from the Montparnasse Tower. Dubbed by many as the ugliest building in the city, it's the only modern skyscraper within central Paris (which makes locating the hotel from far away super easy... not that I needed to do that after a late night out), and although it's an eyesore, the tower offers the best view of the entire city from its 56th floor observation deck. (Which just proves that there's good to be found in everything in Paris!)

Rooms and suites at "The Palace" are spacious, even by American standards. The d�cor is classic, elegant, and comfortable, which may come as a surprise, given that nightly rates are much more reasonable than anything comparable on the Right Bank. The hotel offers all of the standard amenities (WiFi, plush robes in marble bathrooms, full buffet breakfast, a bar and lounge, room service, 24-hour concierge, turn-down, etc.), plus excellent (but not over-bearing) service - all at a great price. If you're looking for a classic 4-star French style hotel without having to sell the Louis Vuitton to pay for it, the Victoria Palace is le choix ideal.

Ready to book a trip to Paris? Not so fast! You may know where you want to stay, but what are you going to do? Before booking your tickets, check out these features on The City of Light; the most fabulous city in the world!

Paris Je t'Aime
Practical Paris :: Doing it right