Rethinking the Wedding Ring: Rony Tennenbaum

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The slow and steady fight for marriage equality took a dramatic leap forward on June 26 when the Supreme Court ruled that state prohibitions on same-sex marriage violate the Constitution. In one day, a fragmented battle became a unified win, and gay and lesbian couples in every state of the union could finally say, "I do." There was nobody happier than jewelry designer and LGBT advocate Rony Tennenbaum.

Tennenbaum has been in the jewelry industry for nearly 30 years and has worked tirelessly to empower men and women to embrace their unions of love in ways that celebrate their relationships while still paying homage to centuries-old marriage traditions. His journey to becoming one of the country's foremost independent wedding and engagement ring designers embodies the American Dream.

"I came to New York City [from Israel] in 1988 and started at a desk job," Tennenbaum recollects, "Over the years I've done almost everything in the production and manufacturing process. I've studied at the Gemological Institute of America and have taken courses in diamond grading. I'm also a geologist."

Tennenbaum took the wealth of knowledge gained from working for big manufacturers and distributors and decided to go out on his own - tapping into the market at a time when only a handful of states recognized gay marriage. After operating his flagship store in SoHo for three years, he started campaigning in the industry to distribute his designs on a larger scale and also educate jewelers on the shift in the LGBT market.

"There is no such thing as gay jewelry," says Tennenbaum. "I don't look at this is a gay line. My initial development was because there was no outlet, yet I've sold 80 percent of my line to straight couples who are attracted to designs that are modern, new and contemporary."

Though Tennenbaum's roots are in the LGBT community, he doesn't believe in the rainbow and triangle as wedding symbols, but rather, looks for inspiration that stems out of love and an emotion. As part of his marketing and community-building initiatives, he's also launched "Rony Talks" - a series of lectures and talkbacks that engage the LGBT community on the "new etiquettes of the rainbow, not only from a jeweler's perspective, but also addressing all of the social issues and quirks that arise when planning a wedding.

What's Good About the Goods?

Tennenbaum is meticulous about his manufacturing process, often using EcoGold (a traceable process that turns recycled product into fine gold). None of his purchased gold is sourced from mining companies, instead relying on the earth's existing metal supply.

Diamonds are tracked using the Kimberly Process, an industry standard to prevent conflict or "blood" diamonds that have in the past tainted the industry. He is also committed to domestic manufacturing and is quick to point out that responsible business practices can go far.

"India and China were major manufacturers and they've increased costs, but over the years the cost differential has narrowed," explains Tennenbaum. "My choice was clear-cut. I can literally walk down the street and into the process to experience the touch and feel of how a design is coming together. I have worked for companies that closed down over the years and have seen friends and colleagues lose jobs. I had a strong feeling that jobs should stay here and feed into our economy."

Bring on the Bling

While Tennenbaum features 18 unique collections that will enrapture anyone with an eye for contemporary style and design, there are a few standouts that exemplify his artistry and thoughtfulness.

Fusion
Tennenbaum's inspiration began several years ago with the fusion of two types of gold to create a dramatic effect. The pave diamond settings have become wildly popular among those who want to use the same ring as the engagement and wedding band.

Xisses
"People want rings that don't necessarily look like traditional engagement rings," says Tennenbaum, who was inspired to create the Xisses collection as a riff off of the XOXO symbol often used as an expression of love. Sleek, cool, and modern, these rings are as much a fashion statement as a declaration of marriage.

Circles of LVOE
Considered one of Tennenbaum's trademarks and a celebration of his years of supporting the LGBT community, Circles of LVOE is a dramatic collection that is a tribute to the defining moments in a couple's life, no matter how you spell it.

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