Elie Saab's Classic Fall Couture has Foliage, Shimmer – and Capes for Men

Elie Saab again transported his VIP guests, including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding at Paris' Musee des Arts Decoratifs, to a realm of magic and splendor. With silks and velvet, the Lebanese couturier once again conjured a fantastical, almost fairytale world of bridal queens, gleaming foliage and midnight shadows. This season, the fashion world also had another peek at couture for men, which is a slowly growing phenomenon.

Here are some highlights of Wednesday's fall-winter 2024 couture collection.

Elie Saab Gleams for Men and Women

The Lebanese designer's fall collection came with dramatic flair, strikingly at midnight, enveloping the audience in a welcome dark mood. Models in black leather opera gloves and graphic bands of black satin set the tone.

Men's couture capes, part of Saab's theme since fall 2022, were embroidered with sequins and gleaming threads, resembling silver foliage kissed by morning dew. Saab's opulent men's couture line continues to add a new dimension to his brand, catering to a market segment that craves visibility.

In the predominantly women's display, organza whooshes swirled upward from the waist in a feat of artistry. As the collection progressed, the color palette softened. Tried-and-tested floor-length silhouettes dazzled in gemstone hues.

A standout piece was a shoulderless gown in powder red, where sequins on the bodice morphed into a sea of feathers cascading down the mermaid-like skirt. The transformation of textures underscored Saab's craftsmanship.

While Saab's designs may not always break the mold in innovation or surprise, the commitment to his signature style ensures that his creations remain timeless. His starry clientele appreciates the red carpet-ready classicism. Wednesday's influential front row was a testament to Saab's enduring appeal.

Viktor & Rolf Expand the Box

Dynamic design duo Viktor & Rolf are often praised in couture for thinking outside the box. This season, they expanded the box – literally and figuratively. Couture looks paraded past a visibly amused VIP audience, morphing models with cubic and rectangular structures. One of the first creations featured minimalist fabric with rectangular shoulders, as if the model had been wrapped as a gift or encased in couture for some sort of luxury delivery. Topping off the look, she donned a red, dog-collar-hybrid neck adornment that added an extra layer of whimsy.

Elsewhere, the boxy structures beneath garments riffed on the concept of rigid shoulder pads, recalling in a tongue-in-cheek way the glamour years of Hollywood. The pièce de résistance was a clashing ensemble featuring a blue houndstooth shirt, pastel-striped mini skirt, and a Bordeaux embroidered jacket with gargantuan, box-like 'shoulder pads' towering above the model's forehead. It was a sight to behold, blending past and future in a surreal collision.

"The human body intersects with three-dimensional, abstract geometric shapes like cubes, triangles, and spheres ... as well as from a child's block set," the house said, acknowledging "a certain absurdism."

Known for their theatrical presentations, Viktor & Rolf once again delivered an engaging and entertaining show that transcended traditional fashion. Hairpieces were stiff and android-like, whimsically swept by the wind, enhancing the surrealist and ironic humor that has become their signature.

Their meticulous construction techniques and structural experimentation shone through, recalling past feats like exaggerated shoulder lines and detachable corsets from a Nosferatu-inspired show. This season's designs were not just garments but a commentary on fashion itself, and the absurdity of couture. Viktor & Rolf have once again shown that they are the grand architects of high fashion, deconstructing and rebuilding the box with every stitch.