Milan Fashion Week: Madonna Makes Veiled Entrance to Dolce&Gabbana for Show Celebrating her 1990s Heyday

Colleen Barry READ TIME: 5 MIN.

ragamo's freedom of movement

Models wear creation sas part of the Ferragamo Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Sept. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Ferragamo creative director Maximilian Davis celebrated the freedom of movement inherent in ballet in his new collection, inspired by archival photos of brand founder Salvatore Ferragamo fitting African American ballet dancer Katherine Dunham for shoes.

Dunham often trained and worked in the Caribbean, which allowed the British designer's with Jamaican roots "to find a link between Ferragamo's Italian-ness and my heritage."

The collection recalls a 1980s way of dressing, with strong shoulders and oversized tailoring, also an homage to Russian ballet star Rudolf Nuryev, another historic Ferragamo customer.

To emphasize movement, Davis created long parachute dresses in silk nylon, suede and organza with a billowing bubble shape. The ballet dancer is honored in cashmere dancer wraps color-

Diesel elevates denim

Models wear creations as part of the Diesel Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Sept. 21, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Deisel models tramped a field of 14,800 kilograms (nearly 33,000 pounds) of denim scraps "to highlight the beauty of waste,″ creating a dystopian backdrop for the brand's latest collection of elevated denim.

The Veneto-based brand under creative director Glenn Martens has become a laboratory for textile experimentation. Short-shorts are embrodered with a cascade of extra-long fringe, for a skirt-like effect. Jeans are lasered to look destroyed; necklines on cotton sweatshirts look distressed but the effect is actually a jaquard with the cotton burned away to the tulle.

Marten's said the brand's "disruption" goes beyond its design. "We are pushing for circularity in our production,'' he said. In that vein: A coat was made from leftover spools of denim thread, while oversized jeans were from recycled cotton, some from Diesel's own production. And the scraps piled on the floor were to be repurposed after the show.


by Colleen Barry

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